Day 6 - Kinlochleven to Fort William - 14 miles

Had a wonderful meal out in the pub last night. Food and service was excellent. Met some other walking acquaintances from previous days. It's surprising how you don't see them for a couple of days, then just meet up.
Before I started had chat with son - well it is his birthday - he is in Estonia for the day. Mmmmmm can I walk there?
Anyway, international affair at breakfast time. The owner had put a nationality flag on each table, so that we knew where we were from. Well I knew where I was from. Don't know if the others knew.
Walked through the town in the sunshine. Yes sunshine!
up to the forest start. I know why they put a forest there - to hide the blooming big hill we had to climb through it. Not a good start to the day! De ja vous?
Anyway, onwards and upwards, Took ages. For one, the legs didn't want to wake up this morning, and another wasn't used to the heat of the sun on our backs.
We made it eventually, and what a reward. The scenery was spectacular!
Great views of the full length of Loch Leven and surrounding hills (which I can't remember their names). There are so many hills, its impossible to remember them. Anyway, if you've seen one hill you've seen them all! (And walked up some)
The path from the top was a lovely, long and beautiful. Called The Larigmor,
or The Big Pass,a big wide barren mountain crossing showing true Scotland.
This took well over an hour to walk,and so we could savour the last of the last of the Highlands, we decided to have our lunch out there. We found a nice little spot and settled down.
We also had to walk facing the oncoming walkers doing the Caledonian Challenge, which is a 54 mile walk from Fort William. You could tell the professionals. Off like rockets. Obviously some army guys in there too, jogging as tho they were off for a warm up. By the latter end of the group tho, you can tell the wee young Bravehearts who had obviously boasted about being fit and able. 'We can do that, easy!' Fools! They thinks it's a doddle. Half don't even have the correct gear.
One guy passed us in a luminous orange full body lycra suit! Well at least they would be able to find him on the hills! What did he think he looked like, wish I had taken a picture! especially, as he seemed to have forgotten his underwear underneath it! lol
Russell and son Cameron joined us for lunch. We have met them often on the walk, and had a fair bit of banter with them. Had a meal with them the other night too.
Russell is a very dry character. His son, is a lovely shy teenager, who probably thinks we are quite insane!
Off again, we then slowly descended towards an 'Half way to Fort William' sign, stuck there for all to see. Also it tells you, you can take a short cut if you walk on the road. I've come this far, not going to cheat now. This half is supposed to take you through lots of forests and plantations, but the have felled most of the trees. It is now horrible, and ugly. Don't know why they have done that, but they need to do something about it.
We walked through Nevis forest though. That was good, very dense and smelled lovely with all the pine. This is where you had to spy your chance for a quick loo stop! First one since setting off early morning. 'I know now why the do the Highland Fling - you are dancing by the time you find somewhere to go!'
Once through the forest tho, after still more climbing through the trees, you came to the top and lo and behold,there in the valley down before us was Fort William. About an hours walk away.
This is the point where I felt sorry for Kate and Wilma, cos I know there emotions would be mixed. Glad they had completed their first distance walk, but sad the walk was over. I will be like that next week.
Anyway, we walked on, downwards all the way. The last part, the last mile was on hard pavement, after having left the tracks. This is a killer on your feet after being used to country walking. It makes the soles of your feet burn, and it seemed to last forever. However.......we made it. Right up to the West Highland Way finish post. What a feeling. Photo shoot time. Cameras to the ready.
We agreed to meet for our last meal together, they were back home to Northern Ireland tomorrow, and also in separate digs for the night.
Anyway, like you do after walking all day for 14 miles, we decided to walk round Fort William and explore. Not a bad little place, Very busy with tourists and walkers. We had a celebratory pint each, had a nice meal together and walked back to our digs. Said our goodbyes, and promised to keep in touch.
Tomorrow..........start of a new walk The Great Glen Way. Starting right here on the front at Fort William. Watch this space!

Day 5 - Inveroran to Kinlochleven - 19 miles

Another long walk ahead. Was Walking with Kate and Wilma today. We set off at a good pace, a slow ascent to Black Mount, which leads to Rannoch Moor. This is what true Scotland is supposed to look like. Rough, boggy, remote and wild. Saw some deer in the distance, with their huge antlers.Just so glad that today was warm and sunny. Would have been very bleak crossing this bit, but the weather was kind to us. Took us couple of hours to reach the summit before reaching Kingshouse. We also skirted the Glen Coe Ski resort. You could see the cable lifts, and yes, there was still ice on the tops of the mountain. After a nice cup of coffee in the Kingshouse hotel, where the staff turned a blind eye to us eating our packed lunches we knew we had the toughest part of the walk to come. So off we set. We had a nice three mile walk, in yet more rain, which only lasted half an hour, before we were to meet the dread of the day. The Devils Staircase!
This climb took us to 1797 feet, the highest point on the walk. It wasn't as bad as we thought though. We must be getting fitter. But it was hot. Yes I did say hot. I was in my shorts and t.shirt, and the climb did zig zag instead of straight up.
What hampered it was the couple of hundred Royal Bank Scotland Hike Challenge walkers coming in the opposite way! Who was manning the banks? The robbers could have had a field day today! And more importantly, who was giving out the money to customers. Was it just ATM day?
Anyway, some of those poor souls will be suffering tomorrow. Think they thought they could walk! Some got picked up at the rear, by special rescue quad bikes, to be taken off the walk as it was clear they wouldn't make it. A lot were struggling. They had a steep climb to do, we had done the hard side and we were on the long, long descent. Going down can be a lot harder on the feet and legs than the actual climbing. This told on us. Also the RBS lot got in the way of a loo break. They were there all the time. No five minute privacy to water the bushes!
We made it down eventually at around sixish.We had set off at 8 in the morning!
Couldn't find the B & B at first, but when we did we had steps to climb. How cruel is that? To climb after the walk we have just done!
We did it. Had to walk back into the village too for our evening meal, which was very very nice, and yes, you've guessed it - another pint! cheers!

Day 4 - Crianlarich to Inveroran - 15 miles

Aaargh. My legs this morning. Had to remind them how to walk! This is the pain barrier day, once through this and you're ok. With all the climbing and the long walk yesterday, they didn't want to work. Was raining again. Is that all it does? Someone told me 'If you can see the mountains it's going to rain, but if you can't - then it's raining!' How true!
Now remember the steep descent last night - well I now have to climb up it to get to the walk route. Was agony. I really was very tempted to turn round and catch the train (I had just passed the station) to the next possible place, but no, I soldiered on. Shouted at my legs to work, which after a while they stopped moaning.
The first six miles of this walk is through a large conifer plantation. Tall great trees making it dark and creepy. I had my red raincoat on, so I knew how red riding hood felt! Anyway I didn't meet any wolves. Didn't see a soul, had they caught the train?
Eventually descended to the River Fillan, which goes past the ruins of St Fillans Priory and graveyard. Think they must have buried their dead vertical 'cos the stones were so close to each other. St Fillan was an Irish Evangalist who tried to convert the Scots! (I do learn something as I walk).
After a pleasant walk along the river I came to Tyndrum. A tiny village, but it's a big stop off point for travellers' heading to Fort William etc. There you can fill up with supplies, call in the huge Green Welly shop and buy most outdoor stuff. I had to buy a new walking pole, having broken mine the previous day, using it rigorously!
New pole in hand, started off on the next 7 miles of walking. Was quite a fairly level walk, with the railway running parallel, and the road nearby. I was in the slow lane of the three, cars middle lane and train fast lane! It had stopped raining at this point, but the wind was strong and in your face, and it was quite cold.
I did stumble somewhere along the track, but managed to get up quickly, mainly to save being watched by the cars in the layby close by! The shame of falling!!
Followed this old Drovers road until I got to the Bridge of Orchy. A tranquil little hamlet. Then upwards again though another plantation and over the top of the hill. Well I kept thinking I was at the top, but every time I got there, there was another bend and a bit more to do!
Eventually I got there and could see in the valley below the Hotel Inveroran. My stop for the night. Took a while to descend tho, and was further than I thought.
Arrived, got to reception and booked in. The lady was lovely, showed me round. Bar first! Had she met me before? then dining room,then my room. She said if I wanted a drink to ring the bell and she would come, she was running the whole caboodle. Anyway told her shower first then bar. Had a drink then met with Kate and Wilma again. We had dinner together, which was lovely, fore we went back to the bar.
The bars I have been in on the walk by the way, are a step back in time. Very basic wooden room, where you expect to find spitoons on the floor. Two guys came in from the camping field next door ( there is literally nothing near this hotel for miles)
one was a mountain guide, the other was on holiday and doing bits of the walk.
We had some fun that night. With one of the guys from Glasgow, he really was a rough and ready kind of guy, the other was more Corporal material and was based in France. Then six guys came in, who apparently met ten years ago doing this very walk, and now meet up annually to walk a couple of days together.
We had such a laugh, especially when Wilma wanted an Irish Whiskey. (In a Scots bar!!!) Then she had a little too much drink and wanted us to have a sing song! Not a chance. I had three, yes three pints that night! wow! Anyway, decided at ten that I had to go to bed. a long walk beckoned the day after. I had no signal again so updating this blog was impossible.

Day 2 - Drymen to Rowardennan 15 miles.

Slept last night in a contraceptive bed - you know the ones. They squeak and make a lot of noise when you move. Good job I was on my own! you certainly wouldn't get up to any mischief - the whole village would know!
Had my first taste of haggis for about 20 yrs. Was quite nice, and I can assure they it was freshly caught!
Was dry when I set off, but rained after 15 mins and didn't stop until ten mins to go hotel for tonight! Typical.
Walked to first climb of the walk. Conic Hill. 1184 feet. Which isn't very high, but in pouring rain, wind and very low clouds, it takes some doing! Took 3 hours to walk 4 miles!!! Why didn't I take the shortcut?
But I found out that a) my boots don't leak. b) my waterproofs are very good and c) my compass works! yes I lost my bearings when the clouds came down. A bit scary. Was sheer climb and of course sheer descent! A walker was killed 2 weeks ago in the strong winds (I didn't tell my family that! sorry - but think you may have said something)
Some strange people on this walk too (myself not included) - some friendly - some, well I will not comment!!
After the descent and some picture taking of Loch Lomond, I walked along side the Loch for ages. Some climbing here and there, but nothing as bad as the morning.
Saw a deer too and managed to get its photo. Soon scarpered tho - must have heard the sloshing of the water on my body!
It's not much fun walking in the rain, and didn't manage to sit down and eat my lunch either, which doesn't help the aching muscles. Still, I arrived at the hotel, which is on the side of the Loch, next to some lovely log cabins. Just had a lovely meal too.
Now trying to dry out all my gear - tho don't know why - rain forecast for tomorrow too! Just tried to upload pictures, but signal not strong enough. Will do as soon as I can

Day One - Mulngavie to Drymen 12 miles

Its been a lovely day for walking. nice breeze, odd sunshine and odd cloud cover. No rain - that's forecast for later in the week - and I am heading for the high hills, so expect to get wet!!
I was very good today, passed a whiskey distillery. Yes that's right walked passed it!!
Didn't think I would finish the day if I called in there after only 6 miles walked.
Met some nice people already, tho there is a language barrier. My broad Lancashire and their quick Scottish talking. Just hope I nod in the right places sometimes.
There was a lot of damage done the other week when they had the very strong winds, and a lot of trees are down along the paths, in fact we have a slight detour in the morning to avoid a blackspot.
Caught my first glimpse of Loch Lomond earlier - that will be my companion for a few days.
Passed a high ridge too. The map said watch out for buzzards! I hope I didn't look that shattered already! Gosh I've only just started! Perhaps they hang around for those who do the walk in reverse. They would live for a long time off the meat on my body! lol
Walk was nice through lots of woods today before opening up to the hills. I've taken some photos but will probably have to upload these when I get a better signal. It takes ages with a dongle.
When I arrived in Drymen, I had a quick look round, it was quick cos all there is is 4 pubs, one library and one butchers, and if you want to go mad you can walk ten mins to the local Spa shop! I was good again at this point cos when I arrived I sat in the sunshine on the village green with the pubs behind me. I will tho, go and test their drink in a short while. How rude it would be if I didn't support the hostelry trade!
Quick shower and change then out for something to eat.

Arrival.....

Well I have arrived, having spent a lovely day with Gaynor, my daughter and Libby, one of my granddaughters. We arrived at Glasgow last night and stayed in a hotel. we've had a lovely day playing golf, in Xscape, followed by a lovely meal.
Many thanks Gaynor for the lift, I do appreciate it, even tho you do have a long way to travel back.
Made first pronunciation error, told you I would make many. Milngavie is pronounced Mull Guy! Why can't they spell it that way then? Foreigners!!
B & B is lovely. Only one other guest, who is starting the walk tomorrow. Not met him yet. Will chat to him over breakfast.
I am going to chill tonight, read my book, or watch a film. Plenty to dvd's to choose from here.
Weather forecast looking good. Cloudy, light winds and about 12 degrees. Lovely to walk in. Only 12 miles. nice warm up!

Last Day..........

Last day before I set off. All packed and ready to go.
Did some good training today. 8 Mile bike ride followed by a walk with Kara, my dog.
So glad she is not coming with me tho
a) She wouldn't make the distance, and I can't carry her!
b) She would smell out all the B & B's after jumping in stagnant ponds.
Had to hose her down today. She can smell water at 1000 paces!
So if anyone wants to borrow a large water diviner for the summer........