Didn't want to leave Inverness today. You do get used to the walking, and it feels like a sort of anti-climax once you have finished.
Well home I must go - for one, I have run out of clean clothes!
I can dream of my next walk on the journey home.
Where shall I walk?........
....... answers on a postcard please.
Thanks to all who have followed me. I have loved some of your comments on facebook too. Thanks for the support and messages to keep on going!
I did, and I enjoyed the walking - rain and all!
Chris xx
Glasgow to Inverness 184 miles
Saturday, 18 June 2011
Day 3 - Rowardennan to Crianlarich 20 miles (uhh more like 22)
Had a good meel in the bar at the hotel last night, and chatted to a couple of fellow walkers. We all moaned about the weather (we are British!)
Up nice and early - long day. so was breakfasted and at hotel reception ready to check out for 7.30 am. Asked the receptionist for my boots, which they were drying from the day before. She asked what colour, I said Blue! She couldn't find them! She directed me to the drying room - ha ha ok! Everyone's boots were a nice khaki colour of dried mud! Take your pick. If they are your size they must be yours!
Boots on, ready to go. Walked five mins and you've guessed it - more rain - with a vengeance and with wind! (The weather not me!)
It describes the walk as 7 miles of lovely scenery, pleasant paths and beautiful photos spots! They obviously walked in the sunshine, not the same walk as I was
doing!
Anyway, walked on until I came to Hotel Inversnaid. A beautiful spot with cruise ship and a lovely waterfall. Notice on door of hotel'walkers remove your boots and leave your kit at the at the door!' Ok, you don't want us dripping people walking through your posh hotel, but I needed a coffee. So undressing in the porch way is not easy - sitting in a nice bar having a lovely cup of coffee is. Was a lovely chance to remind myself that yes, I am on holiday, yes you are supposed to be enjoying it!
20 mins later and went to gather my stuff and wow! it had stopped raining. Quick get out there girl!
Packed away rain gear, off again. Six and half miles of woodland trail with warning that the first three miles are rocky with steep craggy slopes.
Rocky? I felt like a stupid mountain goat after a while. Climbing over rocks and fallen trees, fording the strong waters running down the hills (after all the rains). Then I came to the craggy bit. I think I just stood there for 5 mins before realising that going back wasn't an option. It was a 3 inch ledge for about a metre. Vertical rock on one side and deep cold Loch on the other - should I fall. My boot is wider than the ledge, my backpack weighed a ton. One false move and I was swimming!
Had to shout at myself to do it. Can't let any other walkers think I was a wimp.
You ever kissede a rockface? Not pleasant, but I can assure you, the alternative didn't look good either. My backpack would have taken me to the depths of the loch!
As you can now tell I did it! Thank goodness. Think I had jelly legs for a while with the shock.
Onwards and Upwards!
My boot is wider than the ledge, my backpack
Thursday, 16 June 2011
Day 11 - Drumnadrochit to Inverness - 18 miles
I have done it! I completed the walk from Glasgow to Inverness. 184 miles - give or take a few extra!
Anyway, back to the day. Was up nice and early this morning, and had breakfast and was ready to go by 7.45 am. So off I set. Walked along the main road for a while, which is a bit scary when all the cars are hurtling off to work! Carried on for a while then the path took a detour, sort of running parallel with the main road. For a while anyway!
Managed to take pictures of Urquart Castle, the one that always features in Scottish ads!
Up into a forest again! And there was another climb! My fault for not reading the info - which is probably as well. I didn't want a climb today. This was to be my last day of holiday and I wanted a nice gentle stroll for the 18 miles.
Managed to take pictures of Urquart Castle, the one that always features in Scottish ads!
Oh no! Not a chance. Upwards and upwards, climbing to 1640 feet. Good job I was early cos the legs didn't want to work at all. I was up so early, I could even smell the porridge that the three bears had eaten in the woods!
Anyway, I made it to the top. Another photo shoot!
Looked for the oxygen tent or beer top but couldn't find them. Funny they are never where you want them to be!
Started to descend. Good! Walked on for a while and came to a history lesson, all about how the Newfie (Newfoundland) lumberjacks came to fell the forests cos we hadn't enough men to do it during the war in 1941.
(Who says I don't pay attention when out walking!) Was interesting really.
Anyway, started to climb again! and came to a sign which said highest part of the Great Glen Walk. OK! No more now. I want to come down now, and gently please!
Came to Abriachan forest. Lots of walks here and really well looked after. After walking for a couple of miles came to an area which looked a great place to stay for kids. Tents, play ground, picnic tables, and lots of other nature stuff.
I encroached and had a sandwich there. Was lovely.
Carry on. Left the forest and followed a track for a short while, before hitting a B.road. You ever tried walking on road when you have been used to tracks. They are a killer. They make the souls of your feet hurt like hell.
And this road carried on for a good three miles, It was hard work, and not very enjoyable. Sat down twice along this road, just to rest the poor feet.
Had to carry on tho, which you know I did.
Came to Blackfold moor, where the grouse are nesting. Didn't see any tho, as the heather is quite thick. This is quite a nice area, but didn't last that long.
Another wooded area now. quite thick and dark. Looked for all the characters you hear about in stories, but never saw any of them. You know, Hansel and Gretel, the 3 bears etc. Something tells me they don't really exist, or perhaps I was in the wrong woods!
These woods carried on for a good mile and then thinned out to a forest track which went on and on and on!
Didn't see anyone at all on today's walk, but I was up well before the rest of them - and some B & B's are sticklers for what time they serve breakfast!
Back to the walk. Like I said it went on forever, but eventually came to the end of the forest. Wow! Could see Inverness in the distance! Not long to go now!
Carried on, not along a direct path others have used, but stuck to the official Great Glen Path. They just wanted to make us walk a bit further! Sign ahead!
'Four miles to Inverness Castle!' What? I felt like I had done 16 already, but then I told you that I don't think they know how to measure miles!
Ok, I'll do as I am told - that's a first!
At this point you feel elated and sad at the same time. Glad you have done it, but sad 'cos it's the end! Slowly descended, and I mean slowly. The path meandered down. I should have cheated and followed the obvious tell tale signs that others have cheated! Me cheat? No. I will do the full walk.
Got to the edge of town and it said 2 miles to go, wow. can do this in no time!
Huh, it's the longest 2 miles I have ever walked. Feel like going back and measuring it - but I won't - but I think they have it all wrong. They just wanted us to see the sights of Inverness! We passed the floral gardens, the floral hall, the gold course, the new fitness stadium, the river and then walked through a lovely park, which looks as though it's lit at night! Does that sound like 2 miles to you? They must have been on the whiskey when they measured it!
Eventually - the end was in sight - also was the prison van at the castle!
What had they been told about me? lol
The sign was there, as were 40 or so old age pensioners on an outing!
I waited patiently (hurry up) did they not know what I had just done?
Ok, off they went. Photo shoot. Asked one old guy to take my photo, but he missed half of what I wanted him to shoot, so I asked a nice American couple who were passing by. Thanks folks.Need to pic to prove I have been walking, and not just on a coach tour of the Highlands.
Pictures done. Across the road now for a well earned pint or two, or three........
Was a good walk. Enjoyed most of it. Put up with the bits I didn't like.
Now, what can I do next?..............
ps Any bad spelling or grammar is down to the fact that I have quite a bit to drink!!!!
Day 10 - Invermoriston to Drumnadrochit - 14 miles
OK legs. You have to get going, whether you like it or not! Had breakfast then set off early. Read that this part of the walk was strenuous. Huh, used to that! Weather was dry and overcast too. Lovely day for walking.
Off round the corner, then wham, got to go up that there hill! OK!
We can do this can’t we legs and feet? Ok, still not speaking to me from yesterday then. Don’t blame you!
We are going, whether you like it or not!
Upwards and upwards, then down a bit, then up a bit more. Was this to be the same as yesterday afternoon? Hope not!She knew nothing of forests!
Didn’t have my red coat on tho for long. Was a quick five min shower. Pack rainstuff away, off we go!
Half hour later, get them out again for another five mins, then pack away again. Is somebody having a laugh here or what. Make your mind up please. Not got time for all this stopping and starting!
Well, I climbed, and climbed, through the trees, but....... wow what a view. Lovely scenes overlooking Loch Ness. Took more pictrures. Sorry Libby, Nessie seems to be having a lie in!
It was quite undulating this route, but enjoyable. How a walk should be. I chatted to a couple of German youngsters. They were camping too! Good luck to them. Rather them than me. I want a bed at the end of the day on this walk! The thoughts of having to put your tent up and then start messing about, and perhaps drying all your gear too. No thanks! Hot shower, kettle and a couple of power sockets please!
Don’t want much do I?
Chatted to another Scottish couple I have seen along the way too.
Anyway, plod on, but in a nice way today. Proper forest paths, good directions, Stopped a couple of times too, to savour the view and rest. Last bit, about 2 miles to go. Again this always seems the hardest.
Walked through moorland, then on to a main road. Gosh, these are hard on the feet! I thought i had missed the turnoff for the forest like it said, the road was that long. Should I turn back, should I carry on. Decided to carry on, as it was heading in the right direction anyway. Next there was the turning. They can’t measure miles here! Turned down the path and meandered into the lovely place of Drumnadrochit. Actually arrived at the B & B before my luggage too, so left my rucksack there and set off to explore the place.
Visited the Loch Ness Monster tourist exhibition. Was quite interesting. Did a bit of shopping, and was looking round the whiskey shop at all the different kinds, when the shop assistant asked if I would like to try some. Well, when in Rome etc..... asked for a little drop.......got a lot! Wow, nearly blew my head off. It was very good! Mmmmmmm
Back to B & B, shower, change and off for food. Need to soak up the whiskey. Went to alovely place called The Fiddler. I had Venison again. It was lovely! Then met a couple, from Melbourne, who I walked with a couple of bits. Another whiskey! Dessert, no I’m full. Gaelic coffee? Mmmmmm ok then. Twist my harm! Three whiskey’s mean I should sleep. Had no internet for a couple of days, so Blog would have to wait. How do they live without internet?
Early start tomorrow 18 miles and last day! Oh, and by the way, today was 15 miles, not 14. Told you they can’t work out what a mile is. Must be all the whiskey they drink!
Day 9 - Laggan to Invermoriston - 18 + 2 miles
I didn’t like the B & B I was at at all last night. It stunk of smoke, even tho it clearly said no smoking! It wasn’t really clean either. Surface clean, if you know what I mean. I did look at the other places near by, and was willing to book into one of those, but they were all full!
And to top it off, one of the guys in the room above snored for kingdom come!
Ok, moans over. (for now). On with the day. I had a long day today 18 miles to do and I had a ot to see ‘cos I had read the walk guide. So off I went, leaving the girls behind. They had a short day so I knew I could muster up some pace. (so I kept telling myself anyway).
Leaving Laggan, the walk went through a lovely flat forest bit and came upon what used to be the old railway in 1790 something or other. The station platform was there and you could tell the track was the old line used to be, and there were pictures on a board to show you how it was. A bit Railway childrenish – if you’ve seen the film.
Onwards through a nature reserve – not the kind you are thinking – the wildlife one. Not a naturist park.
I would have cleared it if I had gone through one of those!) And from there, I followed the banks of Loch Oich. Only four miles in length this one, a mere baby! Passed an old suspension bridge and then carried on up the banks of the Caledonian Canal again. Which was a lovely walk, the weather was glorious. Walked through a couple of locks until I came to Fort Augustus.
What a beautiful place, steeped in history about Highland Clans, and it even has it’s own series of locks for the boats. It was quite a bustling place, with lots of touristy things to do. This was one of the places that I wanted to to explore, so I did. Well I am supposed to be on holiday. So I had a good look around, bought myself some new earriings too, ‘cos one of mine is lying somwhere on the Highland hills, and I am not going back to look for it.
Lunchtime! Sat outside a pleasant little pub and had a bowl of soup and a soft drink. Well I still had a further 9 miles to do that afternon.
Set off reluctantly, would have been nice to have finished there for the day. I had to get to Invermoriston. Off I went, this time I had a climb, and I mean a climb. Up and meandering through woodlands, then down again, and then up and up. This part of the walk gets a bit boring, because all you see are trees, the odd glimpse of Loch Ness and a wide forest track to follow, which isn’t so good on the feet. Did manage a couple of pictures of the Loch (under instructions from Libby to get a picture of the Loch Ness Monster!)
Anyway, I didn’t really enjoy this part of the walk and was looking forward to the end. Met this chap walking towards me, I thought he was into house removals with the amount of luggage he had on his back, never mind hiking! He asked me how far to Fort Augustus and I told him a couple of hours walk. Asked him the question – out of politeness cos that’s al walkers ask of each other – ‘How far to Invermoriston?’ He said three and half hours. What ! I had been walking two like I said. I assumed he meant three and half miles, so wished him well and off I went. And went and went and went. Was an endless boring path like I said before. Then, wait for it, found my sign! Diversion!!!!! Fallen trees from couple of weeks prior. Rangers had closed the path!. Oh no. I was tired by then, and I had promised my legs it was only 18 miles. How much further would they have to go. My feet felt like they were on fire too! Was the old man right when he meant the time.
Ok I would have to do it, cos I was tired, I was aching and I was starving, cos by then I had eaten my supplies, mainly out of boredom I think on this part. I walked on. It seemed forever! It was forever!
I walked a mile and came to a small tent. Should I move in and claim squatters rights? I certainly felt like it. My legs and feet didn’t want to do anymore! But I was starving, and stinky and needed clean clothes and a shower! Plod on! Pu t one foot in front of the other and don’t think of it!
That detour was a further TWO MILES!!!! Sorry feet. Sorry legs. Will rest them as soon as I can.
Why is it the last bit always takes the longest?
Eventually I could see my goal. Keep going! I arrived at my B & B and struggled to get up the stairs.
Think I stood in the shower for ages, just letting the water ease my feet and legs. That was the worst day with walking. Still no blisters tho, so must have good socks and boots. Actually surprised my boots haven’t up and walked off on their own by now anyway, with the way they smell!
Had a lovely meal in the Invermoriston Hotel, and a couple of pints. Reckoned I had earned it. Hobbled back to the B & B, which was miles away – well no, actually it was right next door. Just felt miles away!
Collapsed into bed and let my legs and feet shout at me!
Monday, 13 June 2011
Day 8 - Gairlochy to South Laggan - 12 miles
Had a lovely breakfast, after possibly the best nights sleep yet - or was that just collapsing with exhaustion?
Left the beautiful house and walked back to the Walk. Here there is a swing bridge, which allows the farmer access to his fields, so a man is employed to sit there and manually work the bridge. He opens one side then has to use his dinghy to open the other side! what a job!
Anyway, this is supposed to be another quiet day but it is wet and horrible. You can't see much in front of you. I decided that, rather than just plod on along the walk, I would take a detour and visit the Cameron museum - about a mile off the the route.Off I trudged, found it ok - shut!!! Not open till the afternoon! Now what?
Walked a little further and came to a little hamlet called Clunes. A couple of houses, and a log cabin the size of a house garage for a school. Think there were about 5 kids there, unless they were hiding.
Anyway it was cute really.
Signs showed the road led to a waterfall. That would do. I would go and see that. found it no problem after about half an hour walking. Was a lovely place, and apparently was used to film Rob Roy with Liam Neilson. Will have to check that out. The fall goes into a large pool, called The Witches Pool! Some mad woman was thrown down there for something or other and died, so they named it after her!
Think I had better keep moving......
Had to cut through a forest to get back to the route, but I'm glad I did.
Now don't think at this stage I have gone off my rocker or that I am hallucinating - and no I am not drunk - but there along the path was a fairy glen. Little fairies in the trees, toadstool with fairies underneath. Further along the path was a large circular fence about 5 foot high filled with an opening. When you go through it is filled with soft cuddly toys and dolls.
The trail goes on for a while, with different little places. Then there is a little spot that has another toadstool and a large box thats says visitors book.
Well I had to have a look didn't I? It is called the Fairy Glen (surprisingly) and people sign the book and leave comments, and there is a little tub for people to put donations in. All the money they collect is given to children's charities. So of course, I obliged.
Bet you are thinking she has blown it. First witches pools and now fairies! lol.
I'm not mad honest (no comments from anyone please)
Back to the walk. Got back on the route, to find the dullest and longest 7 mile stretch of forest path that you can imagine. It seemed to go on forever, it was still raining and miserable. plod on and keep going. And keep going I did. Met up with a couple of nice girls who are staying at the same place tonight, and we are going for a meal together later.
Eventually we came to Laggan Lock, which is ok, but nothing spectacular. But just on the lock is a large barge, which is a restaurant,come cafe, come bar! Needless to say, we had to inspect it. It is really quirky, with a mad funny guy and his wife running it. You have to pre-book for a meal,otherwise we would have gone back there.
Don't know where we are eating as the lady of this B & B books you into the local place and takes you there as it is a distance off. Will be finding out soon what it is like.
Now this B & B is the total opposite of last night!!!
Talk about going back in time, think its still the sixties here! At least it has a bed - won't say much more on the subject - but I hate satin bedspreads!!!!!!
Day 7 - Fort William to Gairlochy - 11 miles
This is the start of the Great Glen Way. Left Fort William just before nine, and had a quick look round the starting area. Was actually waiting for someone to take my picture at the start, but had to make it look as if I wasn't just loitering with intent! Or even just loitering! This is an easy stroll today, all flat - not a hill to climb!
Walked along the river bank after leaving the shore, and strolled in the sunshine (don't tell anyone but this was the third day in a row without much rain!) Couldn't see much of the river as it is lined with Alder trees. Walked on till I came to the Soldiers Bridge, don't know why, there is no explanations as I can find, though it is near Inverlochy Castle, which I didn't detour to.
From there, walked through a pretty little place called Caol - pronounced Cool!
Walked on the shore of Loch Linhe, where a few Sunday risers were up and playing on the beach with their dogs, Kara would love it here! This led to the embankment of the Caledonian Ship Canal and to another pretty little village of Corpach. As I had time to spare today, I had a look around, stocked up with a couple of supplies in the shop there and went back to the Canal. Followed the towpath for about a mile before coming to Banavie Swing Bridge.
This is the start of Neptune's staircase. This is 8 tightly packed locks rising up. Apparently it takes cruisers 90 minutes to get through these, on an easy day!
Was fascinating to watch. There was only a couple of boats using them, but got to see how it works! From there, all there is to walk is the canal bank for about 7 miles, but the weather was nice. A couple of girls passed, and chatted to them for a while, but they were speed merchants. Just intent on getting to the next place. Not really looking at anything, just walking. I strolled and sat down whenever I felt like it. A lot of dogwalkers were about and quite a few cyclists too. So passed the odd comments with them.
I had just found a nice bench for lunch, when this guy asked could he sit with me!
Asked him where he was walking to, not everyone stays at the same spot, and he was telling me he was walking from Lands End to John O'Groats. He had started on the 1st April and expected to finish by end June. Said he was camping, but his wife was the back up and she would drop him off where he had finished the previous day, and then drive to the finish for that day day and erect the tent, then meet him.
Don't know who had the hardest bit. Him or her.
Anyway, he left soon and I just carried on in my own strolling way. I actually got to my destination quite early - you just get used to walking long distances, so when a short day comes along you have done just after lunch.
Anyway, walked to the B & B, now some places don't want you in till after 4, so I thought if I could just leave my bag, then I would pass the time somehow. But she was lovely and invited me in straight away, made me a cup of tea and sate in the garden with me chatting, while her husband was painting the outside of the house.
We went inside and the house was beautiful, she told me to make myself at home and then showed me my room. What a room! I had an enormous bed and a double aspect. I could see hills from the side and farm fields, and ahead if I sat on the bed I had a magnificent view of the north side of Ben Nevis, still with snow on the top. What a sight. Took pictures, so will post when I can.
Anyway I was staying there for my tea, the nearest pub was 3 miles away. I wasn't going to walk that far just to have a drink and meal when I had the chance to stay there. I had a long hot shower and read my book for the afternoon in my lovely room. Tea was lovely, Coq au Vin, and it was nice to sit and chat with them afterwards. The other two ladies who were staying there, went out. They weren't very chatty, so it's perhaps as well they did!
Went up to my room later, but was told I could take any dvd I wanted. Declined, and went to bed early to finish my book. There was hardly any signal - and that is the only fault I could find, but was it a fault, when I could just sit and relax!
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